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Magical Marrakech |
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Many are drawn to Marrakech for its vibrant and intoxicating energy. But there's another side to this enchanting city than souks and shopping. Rowena Marella-Daw reveals its romantic character with a selection of tranquil, intimate boltholes |
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Marrakech is one of those places that gets under your skin without you even noticing. It has the power to captivate without even trying. I visited this enigmatic city for the first time many moons ago - before riads (traditional Moroccan townhouses) became fashionable boutique hotels, and long before satellite dishes became part of the city's skyline.
The medina and its labyrinth of souks were buzzing with buyers and sellers. Jemaa el-Fna square, the nerve centre of the city, was the place to be and be seen, attracting locals, tradesmen, snake charmers, healers, musicians and visitors alike. Nothing much has changed since. Today, Marrakech still mesmerises and assaults the senses in equal measures with its bold colours, noise, odours and searing dry heat.
To appreciate Marrakech is to keep an open mind and the senses tuned in to the multi-faceted life outside and within the city's ramparts. Passing through one of several gates of the medina is like stepping back in time. A maze of narrow streets is lined with shops selling craft and carpets. The aroma of colourful spices and herbs stacked in conical shapes in another store intoxicates. Next door might be a workshop where an elderly man is carving wood, or a dark and steamy public hammam. Mules have served many a Berber merchant for centuries, and even now these beasts of burden work just as hard, transporting goods from faraway villages. Then suddenly, you are thrown back to the present by speeding motorbikes and cars narrowly missing unfazed bystanders and bewildered visitors. Welcome to Marrakech.
AN OASIS OF CALM
The romantic side of Morocco's third most important city does not reveal itself instantaneously. Much like the women who roam its alleyways with their faces carefully concealed, the mystique of Marrakech is well hidden behind the ancient ochre walls and doors of cedarwood. Beyond these lies a realm of splendour and tranquility; of courtyards, fountains and gardens; intricately-carved arches and Zellige (geometrical patterns) tiled walls; a trail of bevelled lanterns flickering along narrow staircases and corridors; and rooftop terraces that induce a sigh of wonderment at the sight of minarets against the snow-capped Atlas Mountains beyond.
Staying in a riad in the heart of the medina is part of the Marrakech experience. Over the years, many of these have been gradually restored to their former splendour, showcasing some of the best examples of Moorish architecture and craftsmanship. Not to be judged by their nondescript exterior, many of these riads are tucked away in discreet passages.
DAR LES CIGOGNES - INTIMATE & ELEGANT
As the tall grand wooden door of a riad shuts off the frenzied world behind, it opens up to an oasis of calm. One riad that fits this description is Dar Les Cigognes, a boutique hotel situated opposite the Royal Palace of Hassan II. In the courtyard surrounded by orange trees, natural light beams down through an open roof. The silence is interrupted by the trickling of fountain water and the song of a solitary bird. A woman approaches quietly, bringing a tray of mint tea and homemade pastries. She gently pours the tea from a well-polished silver teapot and disappears into the shadows of the corridor.
Dar Les Cigognes was once a merchant's home dating back to the 1600s. Comprising two townhouses, the property was brought back to life by owners Eben Lederking and Tanja Tibaldi with the help of architect Charles Boccara and 50 craftsmen and artists. The interiors depict traditional Moroccan style in understated elegance, accented with tapestries, carpets, ornately carved wooden doors, brass ceiling lamps, and hammered silver mirrors.
There are 11 very private luxury rooms and suites, all individually themed and bearing tantalising names like Sahara, Orientalist, Harem, Middle Atlas, Berber, Safari and Casablanca. These are spread across two adjoining riads, all surrounding the courtyard, a typical aspect of Moorish architecture. Inside these intimate rooms, there's no way of telling if it's day or night until the windows facing the courtyard are opened.
Dar Les Cigognes (House of Storks) gets its name from the storks that dutifully guard their nests on the ramparts of the royal palace across the street. To witness this scene from the rooftop terrace is a rare spectacle, especially during breakfast or a candlelit dinner at sundown. And when the muelliz (the equivalent of a sexton) calls for prayer over the mosque's loudspeaker, the chanting haunts and mesmerises as it permeates the entire city.
Moroccan food tickles the tastebuds by mixing savoury and sweet ingredients with myriad spices to make tagines, couscous and bastillas. The important ingredients are preserved lemons, which give the tagine its distinctive taste, and the 35-spice blend called Ras el Hanout, said to have aphrodisiac properties.
Dining in Dar Les Cigognes's courtyard, lit only by lanterns and candles on a balmy night is a romantic moment not to be missed. Dar Les Cigognes, 108, Rue de Berima, Medina, Marrakech. Tel: +212 (0)524 382 740. www.lescigognes.com
ES SAADI GARDENS & RESORT - EXCLUSIVE & REFINED
Es Saadi Gardens & Resort has been a labour of love for three generations of the Bauchet-Bouhlal family. The patriarch, Jean Bouchet-Bouhlal, started the ball rolling when he built Morocco's first casino in the 1950s. His vision and passion are shared by his family, and together they have created a beautiful sanctuary that has evolved over the years to encompass a luxury hotel, palace, gardens, casino, nightclub, spa, and most recently, 10 luxury villas.
Designed like mini palaces, they are well hidden within lush gardens populated by palm, banana, olive and ancient trees. Each one has its distinct style, colour and architecture to depict a period or place (Amazir, Andalucian, Art Deco, Berber, Favourite, Maharajah, Persian, 1001 Nights, Roman and the Sultan), built by craftsmen and artisans using traditional skills. All villas have air-conditioning, a private entrance, pool and garden to ensure total seclusion and privacy.
The Favorite villa is one to make honeymooners swoon. Cream and beige dominate to create a light, spacious retreat. The four hand-sculpted arches and 10 columns are reminiscent of the grandeur of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, while the cupola above the canopied bed takes one's breath away with its intricate carving. Sliding glass doors lead to a terrace, private garden and a heart-shaped pool built around an old cypress tree. A 24-hour butler is assigned to each villa, so there?s no need to leave at all, except perhaps to try your luck in the casino or wander around the gardens. Even the masseuse will come and set up a massage table in the villa or by the poolside. Personal touches heighten the comfort factor: Moroccan-style robes, an espresso machine and tea kettle, a bowl of fresh fruits, Moroccan pastries and beautifully packaged toiletries.
The elegant La Couer des Lions restaurant in the palace is worth getting off the lounger to sample excellent traditional Moroccan specialities. A lavish selection of Moroccan salads is a good introduction. Find a table close next to the glass windows for a view of the landscape, outdoor pool and the city.
The one thing that sets Es Saadi apart from the rest of the new luxury resorts is the hands-on approach and personal attention the family extends to guests. The staff are cordial, greeting guests with the right hand placed over the left chest as a sign of respect. Es Saadi has been home to illustrious visitors, including film icons, and plays host to the annual Marrakech Film Festival. Yet there is no evidence of elitism or snobbery, and an unassuming attitude makes one feel immediately at home here. Es Saadi's literal translation, the contented one, says it all. Es Saadi Gardens & Resort, Avenue El Quadissia, Marrakech. Tel: +212 (0) 5 24 448 811. www.esaadi.com
PALAIS RHOUL - CHIC & DECADENT
Once a family residence, Le Palais Rhoul & Spa is tucked away in La Palmeraie (palm grove) on the outskirts of the city. The style is eclectic - not typically Morrocan, but enchanting nonetheless. The grand lounge has a central fountain and is adorned with paintings, antiques, a Baby Grand and memorabilia from around the world. At the other end of the lounge is the pièce de résistance - a circular pool surrounded by colonnades that resemble extravagant Roman baths, with trailing plants to add an ethereal edge.
A strking and unusual feature are the glass-fronted rooms that surround the pool. The floor-to-ceiling glass walls (front and rear, including bathroom) take some getting used to, particularly for couples who value their privacy. The only option for non-exhibitionist types is to draw the heavy drapes. However, once ensconced inside you begin to appreciate the finery and decadence, although a welcoming bowl of fruits, complimentary drinking water and slippers (standard in luxury hotels around the world) would have been a nice personal touch. The best suite is the first one to the left of the pool. The stone bath tub is a joy, and you can even sit while showering. For more privacy, there are also luxury tented suites scattered around the huge lawn. A very relaxing massage at the spa and use of the hammam are a treat.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the dining area surrounding the pool, and the plush, white leather sofas make it easy to relax while listening to a great selection of lounge music. Resident birds waiting to be fed are an endless source of amusement. The dining staff are courteous enough, though not exactly on the ball. Polishing up your French would really help, as very few of them speak English. When ordering breakfast, bear in mind that coffee means a regular brew - not cappuccino or espresso, for which there is extra charge. Eggs don't come free either. Palais Rhoul & Spa, Route de Fex, Dar Tounsi, 44000, Marrakech. Tel: +212 (0) 5 24 32 94 94/95. For further details and to book, call 07900 195 261 (UK) or visit www.boutiquesouk.com
KASBAH DU TOUBKAL - EARTHY & ETHEREAL
The term 'romantic' comes in many guises, such as the exhilarating feeling of being on top of the world - in this case, on the foothills of Jbel Toubkal massif, the highest peak (4,167m) in the Atlas Mountains and the whole of North Africa. An hour-and-a-half by car from Marrakech leads to the remote Berber village of Imlil, where centuries-old values and traditions prevail.
This is also the start of a romantic sojourn at Kasbah du Toubkal, a mountain retreat perched on a hill with views over the valley, the thundering water falls, rivers and mountain peaks. At Imlil, a mule is loaded with visitors' luggages, and although these adorable, sturdy animals are capable of carrying up to 150kg of weight, it doesn't alleviate the feeling of guilt. And if it's any consolation, guests have to walk uphill for 15 to 20 minutes alongside the mule to reach the Kasbah.
Kasbah du Toubkal was once the summer home of a local feudal chief. Abandoned and ruined, it was rescued by brothers Mike and Chris McHugo, and is managed by Hajj Maurice, a Berber native and community leader, and his wife. The structure was restored according to traditional Berber techniques using local materials and furnishings, and employing no less than 32 villagers and countless mules. The result is a enchanting and mystical retreat that represents Berber hospitality. The Kasbah was used as location and converted into a Tibetan monastery in Martin Scorsese?s film Kundun, about the life of the Dalai Lama.
At the Kasbah, there is no pressure to do anything - just relax and enjoy the view ‒ the spacious Garden Suite's floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors and veranda provide the best vantage point from which to observe the spectacular scenery and day-to-day activities of villagers. Adobe dwellings precariously cling to the steep, rocky slopes, keeping both adults and children as fit as mules as they sprint, hop and skip on the slopes. Fields of barley and walnut, cherry and apple orchards provide subsistence for the farmers and their families.
In the winter, when the mountains are covered in snow, the scenery is more spectacular, and the lounge is kept warm and cosy by an open fire. The food at the Kasbah is outstanding - home-cooked, wholesome Moroccan and Berber dishes that satisfy voracous appetites, especially after a hard day's trek. Dine in the sumptuous dining room or al fresco on the rooftop for 360-degree views.
Kasbah du Toubkal arranges guided treks that last from a few hours to days, including an ascent to the summit of Jbel Toubkal. Even for visitors who don‛t appreciate long treks, walking around the villages is an eye-opener and an enriching experience. For more information and to book, call Mr & Mrs Smith on 0845 034 0700 or visit www.mrandmrssmith.com
TOP TIPS
- The art of haggling in the souks takes practice, and it can be a frustrating, time-wasting exercise. If you don't want to be hassled by persistent merchants, bring along a professional guide who the hard work. A chaperone and bodyguard rolled into one, he'll make sure you get what your bargain and also find your way back. To arrange a guide and driver, call Boutique Souk on 07900 195 261 (UK) or visit www.boutiquesouk.com
- Don't leave Morocco without buying Argan oil, known for its health and anti-ageing properties. The argan tree grows abundantly in the south west coast near Essaouira, the fishing town frequented by hippies in the 70s. Popular for its laid-back character, shopping around its souks is a much more pleasant, hassle-free experience. Essaouira is a 3-1/2 hour drive from Marrakech, but make sure you stop at Al Jawhara, a women's cooperative store on the way to Essaouira, to stock up on argan oil for the face and for salads.
WE RECOMMEND
Le Foundouk
Le Foundouk is a very popular trendy restaurant located in the Medina. The dining area is spread over three floors. The most sought-after tables are on the romantic rooftop terrace, so book ahead. There menu allows a choice of typical Moroccan or French cuisine. The staff are jovial and service is first rate. You'll be dropped off a few metres from the restaurant, where a man in a turban and carrying a lantern awaits to guide you to the restaurant. Le Foundouk, 55 Souk Hal Fassi, Kat Bennahid. Tel: +212 (0)5 24 37 81 90. www.foundouk.com
L'Abyssin
L'Abyssin restaurant and bar at Palais Rhoul is a wonderfully chilled-out dining experience. Black and white throughout, the ambience is spot-on romantic and the menu eclectic and memorable. It's worth a short drive from the medina just to dine here. Palais Rhoul & Spa, Route de Fex, Dar Tounsi, 44000. For more information and to book, visit www.palais-rhoul.com
La Sultana
La Sultana comprises four sumptuous riads rolled into one palatial hideaway with boutique-style suites. The rooftop restaurant has a romantic ambience and the food is excellent. An example from the menu includes Duck foie gras half-cooked with apples from Ourika or the leg of lamb with honey tajine. And there are two musicians to serenading in the background. La Sultana, 403 rue de la Kasbah. Marrakech. Tel: +212 44 38 80 08. www.lasultanamarrakech.com
GETTING THERE
Marrakech is only a 3-1/2 hour flight from London. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Luton to Marrakech Menara Airport (RAK); Royal Air Maroc and Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) fly from Gatwick.
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