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Winter Delights |
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Winter brings to mind many heart-warming thoughts - a roaring log fire, fairytale villages, skiing and lots of cuddles, particularly for newlyweds embarking on a snow-bound journey. There's no shortage of romantic and equally enchanting places to explore this season, as Rowena Marella-Daw discovers |
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Transylvania
The mere mention of Transylvania can send shivers down the spine − the association with Dracula in Bram Stoker's eponymous classic is not easily forgotten. The region's dramatic history under the reign of Vlad III, Prince of Wallachia, otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler, is even more terrifying. But beneath this shroud of mystery and terror lies a beautiful unspoilt land waiting to be discovered.
Transylvania's Carpathian Mountains are captivating whatever time of year. In the winter, they become a playground in the sky, with ski resorts like Poiana-Brasov offering good value for money (a pint of beer would cost less than £2 here compared to £7 to £10 in western Europe). The forests are home to a plethora of wildlife - brown bears, wolves, bison and lynx. Many of the surrounding picturesque villages such as Sighisoara, Sibiu and Brasov date back to the time of the Saxons, who left their mark in the form of architectural and historical gems.
One of the key winter attractions is the Ice Hotel, perched 2,000m high up the Faragas Mountain and near Lake Balea. There are nine bedrooms shaped like igloos, each one named after a planet. And to keep couples warm and cosy, the beds are lined with sheep's fur and there's a bar serving Palinka − a double-distilled fruit brandy and probably Romania's answer to Absinthe. The Ice Hotel can only be accessed by cable car, making the journey even more thrilling.
Ice Hotel package
Untravelled Paths offers an Ice Hotel and ski package for nine nights, which includes five days of skiing, priced from around £650 per person. Also available are customised itineraries, week-long ski packages and extended weekend trips to Romania's premier ski resort, Poiana-Brasov. For more information, call 07789 487 472 or visit www.untravelledpaths.com
Brasov
The city of Brasov is not far from the Ice Hotel and can be reached by a leisurely train journey from Bucharest. Walk around to see the historic buildings like the Gothic Black Church, the bohemian cafés and back streets. Bran Castle has to be seen even if you're not a vampire fanatic. More popularly known as Dracula's Castle, it attracts bus loads of tourists, but contrary to common belief, there is little connection to Vlad the Impaler. The castle was built by the Saxons as protection against invading Ottoman Turks. From the 1920s it served as residence for Romanian royalty, most notably Queen Marie, whose collection of tapestries and furnishings is on display. There is a secret staircase in the castle and plenty of nooks and crannies to explore. Along the entrance of the castle and the carpark are several stalls selling kitsch vampire memorabilia.
Sibiu
Within close proximity to Brasov and the Faragas Mountains, Sibiu is a popular trekking destination. It is also one of the country's important cultural centres, with medieval fortifications and several museums dedicated to art collections, paintings, anthropology, archaeology and natural sciences.
Sibiu comprises two parts: the upper town was once the more affluent enclave, where many historic sights are found - Huet Square, Great Square, the Passage of Steps, which links the upper and lower towns, the Bridge of Lies and the Goldsmiths' Square. The lower town used to be an industrial area, but the cobbled streets are now lined with pastel-coloured medieval buildings.
Sighisoara
The well-preserved Sighisoara is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the birthplace of the aforementioned Vlad the Impaler. This former fortress is like a fairytale town set in the backlot of a Hollywood studio. The fascinating thing is that everything is for real - from the creepy stone steps leading up to the imposing clock tower to the torture room in the museum dedicated to the medieval battles that took place over centuries against the Ottoman Turks.
A more uplifting sight is the aerial view of this medieval town from the top of the museum: tiled rooftops and towers, shadowy cobbled alleyways and distant forests, all converging to set a mysterious scene. Stop by for a bite at the Casa Dracula restaurant, where Vlad lived until the age of four.
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