|
|
|
| |
A Vine Seduction - Bordeaux and its Vineyards |
 |
| |
Toast your new life as husband and wife among the grapevines of Bordeaux, the fine wine capital of the world. A combination of good food, world-class wines, charming vineyards and friendly locals are what make this city irresistible and intoxicating, as Rowena Marella-Daw discovered
|
| |
| Click on any of the images below to view a larger version |
|
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
| |
Images courtesy of CIVB and Rowena Marella-Daw
When it comes to romantic French city destinations, Paris inevitably comes to mind. What love-struck city slickers may not realise is that there are far more romantic (and safer) cities in the country. Bordeaux, the sixth largest city in France and the capital of the Aquitaine region in the south west, is giving Paris a run for its money in terms of sophistication, culture, architecture, gastronomy and efficiency. In the social department, the Bordolais are laid back.
But what really sets Bordeaux apart is its wines, which have earned the region the reputation as the fine wine capital of the world. The Bordeaux vineyard is the largest producer of prestige wines in France (five times the size of Beaujolais) and indeed in the world.
BORDEAUX IS FOR LOVERS
Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, Bordeaux has over 350 historical monuments, yet it is compact enough to explore in one or two days. The best way to appreciate this charming city and its architectural gems is on foot. A good starting point is Place de la Comédie, the focal point of which is the impressive Grand Theatre, home of the Opéra National de Bordeaux. On the square, several outdoor cafés entice passers-by to sit back and relax with a glass of wine while absorbing the ambience and character of the city and its people, while state-of-the-art trams glide quietly past the square.
A triumph of modern engineering, these trams are not attached to traditional pylon and overhead cables, but instead operated by an underground power supply. With this environmentally friendly mode of transport, traffic is practically non-existent in the city centre's streets, many of which are car-free zones. These trams take commuters through the city and further out into the suburbs. Efficient, clean and cheap, they make Bordeaux the envy of many cities.
Wander through the city's old districts and quiet alleyways to discover hidden gems - fountains in the centre of the square, intimate cafes, restaurants and patisseries. Walk along the riverside promenade that runs parallel to the Garonne river. This is where the glory of the city can be truly appreciated - an elegant panorama of magnificent 18th century buildings. By day, the riverside park across the Place de la Bourse attracts many visitors. At night, the city's illuminations create a magical backdrop for lovers strolling along the river.
On Sundays, go bargain-hunting at a flea market in the cosmopolitan district of Saint-Michel, but put time aside for the food market at the quay in the Chartrons district, which used to be the heart of Bordeaux's wine trade. The quay is where everyone gathers for a typical Sunday lunch. Oysters and wine are a favourite among the Bordolais, but there's also a wide selection of quality cuisine at very reasonable prices. Wine tasting, cheese and a tough choice between a tarte tatin, tarte Normandie and many more luscious desserts.
CHATEAUX AND VINEYARDS
It's important to distinguish between the term château that we commonly associate with a magnificent French castle, and the Bordolais château, which is a property or estate that has a vineyard and produces its own wine. Each wine-producing chateau will therefore have its own label on the bottle, such as Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Marqaux.
Although Bordeaux is more popularly associated with classic red wine (claret to the Brits), the region produces excellent dry whites, sweet whites, rosés, clairets, and even its own sparkling wine. To maintain the highest possible quality, each year vineyards are classified according to stringent AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) standards. There are 57 appellations recognised for the good quality of the wines they produce.
The main grape varieties grown in Bordeaux's vineyards are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, semillon, cabernet franc and muscadelle. The vineyards are grouped into sub-regions, namely Graves, Médoc, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sauternes, Blaye, Saint-Emilion and Saint-Julien.
Coming from a prestigious, centuries-old wine heritage, Bordeaux's vineyards have a lot to live up to, with stiff competition from new world vineyards giving Bordeaux's wine producers the impetus to make their wines more accessible and affordable. But a good vintage year depends very much on the climate and is at the mercy of the weather.
Wine tasting tours to famous chateaux, family-owned estates and vineyards are organised by the tourist office and can also incorporate a vintage workshop. Harvest time in autumn is a great time to visit, and possibly take part in grape picking. A good way to start is to book a two-hour beginner's wine tasting course at the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux, located just across the tourist office at the city centre.
SAINT-EMILION
Saint-Emilion is the most romantic and historic wine-producing region in Bordeaux. Located 35km north east of Bordeaux between Libourne and Castillon-la-Bataille, this stunning ancient town is perched on top of a hill overlooking the Dordogne valley.
A UNESCO world heritage site, the town was named after the monk Emilion, who lived the life of a hermit in a cave in the 8th century. The town?s main sights are the monolithic church carved entirely out of solid limestone, underneath which is a fascinating labyrinth of catacombs, and the King's Tower, which is believed to have been built in 1237 as a citadel for King Henry of England. Walk up the steep and narrow staircase to the top of the tower to get the most exhilarating views of Saint-Emilion, its Romanesque churches and the sprawling vineyards surrounding the town.
Saint-Emilion wines have come a long way to become one of the most prestigious brands. It's worth visiting Château Fonplegade for some wine tasting. There is a wine shop on the estate, so stock-up on vintage reds and whites. Tours from Bordeaux can be booked through the tourism office. For more information on Saint-Emilion, visit www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com
WHERE TO STAY
THE REGENT GRAND HOTEL BORDEAUX
At the heart of the city and across from the Opéra National de Bordeaux is The Regent Grand Hotel, the city?s most luxurious five-star hotel. The building represents the grandeur of the city's architectural heritage, while the interior is a modern-day interpretation of a bygone era mixed with eclectic and opulent furnishings.
Walk through to the other end of the lobby and find yourself in the world of haute couture at Fashion Avenue. Anyone who those who succumbed to the temptation and feels guilty about blowing the budget can ask for forgiveness at the imposing Notre Dame church standing across from the hotel's entrance.
The bedrooms are equally plush and comfortable, with marbled bathrooms and modern comforts. There are 22 luxury suites designed by famed designer Jacques Garcia, some of which overlook the Place de la Comedie square and the Grand Theatre. Dining at the hotel is a very expensive affair, but well worth it if you're celebrating a very special occasion. Bring a hefty breakfast appetite for a delightful spread of French and continental cuisine. Even the jams taste extra special. For more information and to book, visit www.theregentbordeaux.com or call +33 05 5730 4444.
HOTEL SEEKOO
Bordeaux is not all about tradition and history. The city has a trendy side to it, and the one building that best evokes its quirky character is the newly opened Seekoo Hotel, situated along the banks of the Garonne river in the Chartrons district.
The name Seekoo means ?iceberg? in the Inuit language, and true to its name, the pure white building resembles a solid block of ice. The ultra-modern, sleek interiors and 45 bedrooms are in basic white, red and black, with en suite bathrooms separated only by soft-fabric curtains. Wall-to-wall reflective ceilings add an illusion of height and space, and would suit modern couples. The trendy bar?s mood lighting, lounge music and comfortable leather seats are very conducive to chilling out after a day exploring the city.
The Seekoo is within easy access from the city centre by tram. Even better, cross over the tram rails and stroll along the riverside, where rows of trendy restaurants, cafés and bars await. Engage in some retail therapy, particularly in the lingerie and kitchen shops. Indulge your cocoa cravings in a shop dedicated purely to Lindt Chocolate - in every flavour imaginable. For more information and to book, visit www.seekoo-hotel.com or call +33 05 5639 0707.
RELAIS DU CHÂTEAU D'ARCHES
Couples looking for a truly romantic vineyard setting will find tranquillity among the vineyards of Relais du Chateau d'Arches, near the village of Sauternes. This splendid, elegant hotel has an impressive vineyard that produces Grand Cru Classe sauternes (sweet white wine). More like a private estate, there are only nine luxury en suite bedrooms in the chateau, each one individually and exquisitely styled, with panoramic views of the vineyards and the village. Highly recommended are the two tower bedrooms - one facing the town and vineyards, and the other facing more vineyards and the fields beyond. A tour around the vineyard and the cellar can be arranged.
At night, leave the car behind and take a short walk from the chateau to the town of Sauterne through a quiet country lane. It?s perfectly safe and the sight of the lit church steeples and the stars above will set you in the mood for a delightful dining experience at Restaurant Le Saprien, located at the centre of town. Sit yourself near the fireplace or on the terrace overlooking the vineyards and enjoy typical regional cuisine and specialities like grilled meats, fish and foie gras.
Depending on the season, the menu can include an intriguing dish of lamproie (French for lamprey). Not for the fainthearted, the lamproie resembles an eel, and although it has no jaw, the waiter takes delight in describing the fish as a blood-sucking predator that feeds on other fish with its funnel-like mouth and rows of razor-sharp teeth. The fish is meaty and cooked in a dark brown sauce - very tasty and certainly worth trying as a side dish. Restaurant Le Saprien, Sauternes (Tel: +33 05 5676 6087). For more information on Relais du Château d'Arche and to book, visit www.chateaudarche-sauternes.com or call +33 05 5676 6767.
LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE
Couples who wish to combine the luxury of a vineyard setting with spa indulgence should head for Les Sources de Caudalie, home of world-famous Caudalie Vinotherapie® Spa.
The hotel, its two restaurants and the spa are part of the Château Smith Haut Lafitte estate and its vineyards. The spa is located in a separate building where the facilities are designed as a haven of calm and relaxation. All treatments and products are based on the concept of vinotherapie, which combines products from vines and grapes and mineral-rich spring water sourced from 540 metres below the ground. Unique to the spa, the vinotherapie concept harnesses the high levels of polyphenols found in grape extracts. Some examples of the spa's unique treats are: crushed cabernet scrub, merlot wrap, barrel bath for two with a cranial relaxation and pulp friction massage with fresh grapes.
The L'Ile aux Oiseau is a suite on a lake with a pontoon and makes an idyllic hideaway for honeymooners. Book a tour of Château Smith Haut Lafitte and taste some of their best wines. For more information and to book, call +33 05 5783 8383 or visit www.sources-caudalie.com
WHERE TO EAT
LA TUPINA
La Tupina is a popular bistro that specialises in south western French cuisine, so expect plenty of meat and foie gras. The food is cooked over an open fire by the exuberant chef. La Tupina, 6-8, rue Porte-de-la-Monnaie. Tel: +33 05 56 91 56 37. www.latupina.com
CAFÉ DU PORT
This riverside restaurant is situated along the right banks of the Garonne and has fantastic views of the cityscape and the illuminated Pont de Pierre bridge at night. The food is excellent, with a selection of meat and seafood dishes, complemented by a choice of fine wines. Café du Port, 1, quay Deschamps, 33100 Bordeaux. Tel: +33 05 5677 8118. www.lecafeduport.com
LE GRAND THEATRE
Conveniently located next door to the Grand Théâtre after which it was named, this is a trendy restaurant where the waiters and waitresses make a fashion statement by wearing leather aprons as part of their uniform. The food is excellent, the ambience vibrant and the diners an unpretentious mix of theatre patrons, visitors and well-heeled locals. Le Grand Theatre, 29, rue Esprit des Lois, 33000 Bordeaux. www.chezgreg.fr
LOGIS DE LA CADENE
If you have one chance to dine in Saint-Emilion, book a table at the Logis de la Cadene, the kind of restaurant that favours romantic, candlelight alfresco meals on a balmy summer or autumn evening. This family-run restaurant-hotel serves excellent regional cuisine and specialises in dishes grilled on vine branches. Logis de la Cadene, 3, place du Marché au Bois, 33330 Saint-Emilion. Tel: +33 05 5724 7140. www.logisdelacadene.com
WHAT TO BRING BACK
CANELÉ
Canelés are individual puddings laced with rum and vanilla and baked in fluted copper moulds. Perfect with tea or coffee, a proper canelé has a caramelised crust and a spongy consisitency on the inside. Baillardran (a href="http://www.baillardran.com" target="_blank">www.baillardran.com) is famous for its canelés and there are branches all over the city and at the airport.
SAINT-EMILION MACAROONS
Handed down from the original recipe used by a nuns in the 1600s, the Saint-Emilion macaroons are made only with the finest quality almonds, egg whites and sugar. The perfect Saint-Emilion macaroon is light, has a delicate crust and a cushiony centre. Get them from the shop with the sign Ferlion-Macaron: Fabrique des Veritable Macarons which guarantees you're getting the authentic recipe handed down to proprietress Nadia Fermigier. Warning: one taste and you're hooked, so stock up on a few boxes to take home. The friendly women at the shop will gladly package them up in sealed boxes to keep them fresh. Ferlion-Macaron. 9, rue Guadet, 33330 Saint-Emilion. Tel: +33 05 5724 7233.
RECOMMENDED WINES
Château Reine Blanche, Grand Cru, Saint-Emilion 2005
This dry merlot has a rounded, supple character; silky on the palate, with a delicate balance of sweetness and tannins. Full, rich flavours of plums, blackberries, raspberries and a hint of chocolate. Available from Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com
Château de Bel air, Lalande de Pomerol 2006
A very fine red, this blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and malbec is well balanced, with aromas of berries and toasted oak. A 2004 vintage is available from www.lebonvin.co.uk
Château de Brondelle, Graves Blanc 2006
Made from a blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle, this dry white has a clean, fruity taste. Available from www.lebonvin.co.uk
Dourthe No 1 Sauvignon Blanc 2007
The distinct, zesty taste of this modern dry white comes from sauvignon blanc, garnering the Decanter Magazine Bronze (2007 vintage) award. Its producer, Dourthe, won the prestigious Best French Wine Producer Award at the International Wine and Spirit Competition 2007. For a special offer price of £4.97, this award-winning white is a real corker. Available from Waitrose Wine Direct, www.waitrosewine.com
Château Doisy Daëne 2004, Sauternes 2ème Grand Cru Classé
This sweet white is made from a blend of 80% semillon and 20% sauvignon blanc and has a lemony, delicate flavour. Available from Waitrose Wine Direct, www.waitrosewine.com
Useful Contacts:
CIVB (Conseil Interprofessionel du Vin de Bordeaux)
www.vins-bordeaux.fr |
Bar a Vin (CIVB Wine Bar)
www.baravin.bordeaux.com |
| |
|
Bordeaux Tourism Office
www.bordeaux-tourisme.com |
Maison du Vin de Bordeaux
www.vins-bordeaux.fr |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
